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Various tips in this thread on WPCentral eventually got me set.

I'm not sure if all of these steps are required or not, but they were for me:

  • Turn off find my phone
  • Force a backup to the cloud in settings > backup > app list+settings
  • Delete all your phones on windowsphone.com. It will warn you that your phone will no longer be able to connect to your account, ever, unless you factory reset it.
  • Factory reset phone. I imported my settings from the cloud and waited.
  • Once it was up and running, I turned find my phone back on (or checked that box—sorry I forgot!).

My settings look normal now (though I can't remember if the on/off switch should be there): settings > systemsettings > system > find my phone